Hours:
Monday - Friday:
09:00 AM - 09:00 PM
Saturday:
09:00 AM - 11:00 PM
Sunday: CLOSED
Welcome to Garage Tune!
We are your track and drift racing experts, specializing in rear wheel drive and all wheel drive track vehicles. We carry a number of brands and will always do our best to get you the best price on anything we carry! If we don't carry a brand you're interested in, let us know and we'll attempt to begin carrying it, and if we can't beat someone elses price, we'll tell you where you can find it cheaper! We will always work with you to try to beat or match the price of a competitor.
We have been in the track and drift scene for approximately 12 years now and while we won't claim to know everything, we are always attempting to become more knowledgable in every form of motorsports that we can, so we can offer you the best experience possible.
Please check the site often, as we are always lowering prices, adding new products, adding new brands, and posting up news about our shop cars or other shop projects in our blog! If you have a question, comment, or would just like to chat about cars sometime, please don't hesitate to contact us!
Please be patient with us while we get everything up and going. We are adding new products all the time, but if you see something in our brand list that isn't in the store yet, give us a call and we'll give you a quote!
The Blog
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http://www.garage-tune.com/blog
Wed, 18 Aug 2010 07:14:15 +0000enhourly1http://wordpress.org/?v=3.02010 08 17 Tuesday Night Meet
http://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?p=706
http://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?p=706#commentsWed, 18 Aug 2010 07:14:15 +0000Philhttp://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?p=706
]]>http://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?feed=rss2&p=70602010 08 10 Tuesday Night Meet
http://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?p=643
http://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?p=643#commentsWed, 11 Aug 2010 07:35:35 +0000Philhttp://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?p=643
]]>http://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?feed=rss2&p=6430Tuesday Night Meet
http://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?p=590
http://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?p=590#commentsWed, 04 Aug 2010 07:16:30 +0000Philhttp://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?p=590
]]>http://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?feed=rss2&p=5900Tuesday Night Meet (2010-07-27)
http://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?p=512
http://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?p=512#commentsWed, 28 Jul 2010 07:50:42 +0000Philhttp://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?p=512This tuesday’s meet @ Sunset & Marks near Del Taco.
]]>http://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?feed=rss2&p=5120Vegas ProAm Round 3
http://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?p=455
http://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?p=455#commentsTue, 27 Jul 2010 07:19:47 +0000Philhttp://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?p=455I’m not much of a writer, so here are the pics!
]]>http://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?feed=rss2&p=4550Tuesday Night Meet (2010-07-20)
http://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?p=321
http://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?p=321#commentsWed, 21 Jul 2010 07:06:34 +0000Philhttp://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?p=321Pics from the meet tonight!
]]>http://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?feed=rss2&p=3210Twin Tube vs Monotube Suspension
http://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?p=188
http://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?p=188#commentsFri, 08 Jan 2010 22:29:04 +0000Philhttp://www.garage-tune.com/?p=188Monotube vs. twin-tube vs. foam cell shocks: A beginner’s guide
A shock absorber is an incredibly simple and effective part of any suspension, and it has only one shortcoming: high temperatures. All the energy created by the springs has to go somewhere, and it ends up morphing into heat. Unfortunately, when the oil’s mercury starts to rise, its viscosity starts to thin out and absorbs less energy. If the oil gets too hot, it can start to bubble like a pot of boiling water, causing a dreaded case of shock fade.
Besides just dampening, a good shock must also be engineered to dissipate heat efficiently for consistent performance. The primary way to keep fade and foam in check is through maintaining high internal pressure. Ever wonder why a radiator doesn’t boil over unless you open the cap? It’s because your coolant is pressurized, and pressure greatly increases a fluid’s boiling point. Shock absorbers work the same way. In general, shock fade is kept at bay through gas charges and tube design. Let’s investigate the 3 most common designs:
Twin-Tube Shocks:
The twin-tube shock can trace its lineage back to the mid 20th century, and its ingenious design still stands the test of time. As its name implies, twin-tube shocks have 2 chambers: an inner and an outer tube. The inner tube is where most of the work takes place. Here, the piston plows up and down through the main supply of oil. The outer chamber holds an extra supply of oil and a low pressure gas charge at around 100–150 psi. The gas, usually nitrogen, provides the backstop against the flow of oil for mega dampening. However, as the oil heats up, it can mix with the gas and cause foam and fade.
Twin-tube shocks deliver comfortable, stable all-around dampening for cars, trucks and SUVs. In fact, twin-tubes are probably the most commonly used shocks in the automotive market today. Ideal for street driving, they feel smooth yet still reduce body roll and sway during cornering and dipping during hard stops and spirited acceleration. However, rugged off-roading can cause the twin-tubes to overheat, which leads to foam and fade in extreme conditions.
Foam Cell Shocks:
Foam cell shocks are nearly identical in design to twin-tubes. The key difference is that the gas is trapped inside of tiny little capsules rather than free-floating. By separating the gas charge from the oil, the risk of foaming is nearly eliminated while still providing the comfortable ride quality of a twin-tube shock. However, foam cell shocks are vulnerable to overheating. If the oil in these shocks gets too hot, the foam cells can erupt. After that, no matter how long they cool down, they’ll never regain the same level of performance.
Monotube Shocks:
One may be the loneliest number, but monotube shocks have no problem leading a solitary life. Rather than using two chambers, these burly shock absorbers do it all in a single tube. What’s more, they have twice the piston power as a twin-tube shock. The first piston is located right where you would expect it–at the end of the piston rod. This first piston pushes against a section of oil, which is forced downward into the second piston. This floating piston is sandwiched between a section of viscose oil and a pocket of highly charged gas (between 200–360 psi). By separating the oil from the gas, monotube shocks greatly reduce the risk of oil foaming and fade.
The dual piston design of monotube shocks provides stiffer dampening, which is preferred for sportier handling and grueling off-road conditions. Monotube shocks are also air cooled, so they do not retain heat the way twin-tubes do. Plus, they can be mounted upside down for extra weight support. However, monotube shocks are difficult to mount in place of stock twin-tube shocks on cars and stock-height trucks and SUVs because of the added length and range. Also, monotube shocks are slightly more vulnerable to dent damage because there is no outer buffer.
]]>http://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?feed=rss2&p=1880Formula for estimating required injector size
http://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?p=183
http://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?p=183#commentsFri, 08 Jan 2010 21:53:57 +0000Philhttp://www.garage-tune.com/?p=183Alright, keep in mind this is just a general formula, but I find it to work pretty well in most situations.
For naturally aspirated engines, estimate BSFC to be 0.4 to 0.5
For nitrous engines, estimate BSFC to be 0.5 to 0.6
For forced induction, estimate BSFC to be 0.6 to 0.7
For rotary engines, estimate BSFC to be 0.6 to 0.7
For engines running methanol, double the appropriate gasoline BSFC (e.g. a forced induction methanol engine has a BSFC between 1.2 and 1.4)
Duty Cycle should always be estimated at 80% (so 0.8). Running injectors at anything higher than this for any period of time can result in injector failure, which can lean out your motor, and start melting things.
If you know your goal HP:
Flow Rate (lb/hr) = (Crank HP * BSFC) / (# of injectors * Duty Cycle)
Flow Rate (cc/min) = (Crank HP * BSFC * 10.5) / (# of injectors * Duty Cycle)
To calculate max HP based on flow rate:
Max HP (lb/hr) = (Injector flow rate x Number of injectors x Duty Cycle) / BSFC
Max HP (cc/min) = (Injector flow rate x Number of injectors x Duty Cycle) / (BSFC x 10.5)
To convert lb/hr to cc/min: To find lb/hr = Fuel injector flow (cc/min) / 10.5
To find cc/min = Fuel injectors flow (lb/hr) * 10.5
]]>http://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?feed=rss2&p=1830Project Hachi – Dash Redone
http://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?p=169
http://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?p=169#commentsTue, 10 Nov 2009 07:26:35 +0000Philhttp://www.garage-tune.com/?p=169Alright guys, latest update, just finished reconditioning my dash. Fixed a couple of burn marks, fixed a couple of cracks and scratches, then primered and bed-linered. One of these pieces was blue and the other two black, now all black.
Anyways, just a little update for now, I’ll post more tomorrow.
]]>http://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?feed=rss2&p=1690Project Hachi – Oil Cooler and Intercooler
http://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?p=161
http://www.garage-tune.com/blog/?p=161#commentsWed, 23 Sep 2009 02:00:51 +0000Philhttp://www.garage-tune.com/?p=161Just got the two latest parts for project hachi. Mishimoto oil cooler and intercooler. I should have a radiator shroud kit on the way soon as well. Almost done collecting all the motor parts!